An annual plant completes its life cycle in just one season, from seed to flower to producing seeds, all before frost kills the plant.

Most annuals are tender (killed by frost) but there are some which are fairly hardy and will take low temperatures late into the fall. Annuals bloom quickly from seed (that's their schedule) and most can be planted directly outdoors.

How to use annuals in your garden Plant in large groups, or in masses, or in rows -- whatever effect you like. Some annuals are pretty when used as a low hedge or border around other plants.

Annual flowers also are wonderful companions to perennial plants, especially perennial gardens which have been recently planted and may not bloom the same season. Plant around mailboxes, in an old tire, or in a wheelbarrow. Annuals are wonderful in large containers, too, and in hanging baskets. Allow space for plants to grow (if too crowded, they can’t bloom well). Shown above is the Easy Gold Garden, a colorful annual flower garden from seed.

Can I plant anything else with my annuals?

YES! Combine with spring-flowering bulbs, summer flowering bulbs, perennial plants, blooming shrubs. They're also great combined with a lot of other annual flowers.

Plant combinations to try (annuals in red):

Daylilies and Peonies with Daffodils, Dahlias and Marigolds, Calendula and Nasturtiums

Hosta and Bleeding Heart with Tuberous Begonias and Impatiens, Coleus and Pansy

Echinacea and Liatris with Lilies and Vinca, Scabiosa and Cornflowers

Poppies and Daylilies with Tulips, Lilies and Ageratum, Lavatera and Larkspur

Rudbeckia and Hollyhocks with Cannas, Gladiolus and Zinnias, Verbena and Snapdragons.

Use your imagination -- Anything goes!

HOW TO GROW ANNUALS

Plan Your Garden Sketch the area on graph paper. Put groups of similar plants together for pleasing color effect from a distance. Allow space (one to one-half times plant height) for plants to grow and spread.

Evaluate and Prepare Soil Select an area that's well-drained (no puddles after rain). Improve soil by adding plenty of organic material before establishing your garden, and do so every year thereafter. Loosen soil by tilling or digging to a depth of 6-12 inches. Turn over well, forking in the organic material. If a soil test indicates, spread a balanced fertilizer over the area, and work in. Smooth the soil surface and mark the locations for planting. If starting a new garden in spring, wait until your soil has passed the "clump" test. A palm-full of soil should stick together when squeezed, then break apart into medium-sized particles. At this point, it’s safe to work soil.

Planting Scatter seed in bands, groups or rows, according to packet instructions. When seedlings have several pairs of leaves, thin then out and mulch around each plant (a 2-3 inch layer).

Watering Water well daily, so seedlings will emerge quickly and begin to bloom. After plants are established, water weekly.

Possible Pest and Disease Problems

PREVENTION Pull weeds when they’re small. Deadhead (pick off faded flowers) daily. The more you do this, the better the plants will bloom. Pick off any dead or sick-looking leaves from plant or ground around plant. Don’t add diseased or insect-infested stems to your compost (they may live over winter). Look for insects, and hand-pick them. A hard spray from the hose will help wash off many pests. Beneficial insects (ladybugs) and birds can help eat insect pests.

COMMON INSECTS

Aphids Small, soft-bodied, translucent insects, color green, red, brown or black, which suck plant juices. Found on shoots, under leaves and on flower buds. Can stunt or deform leaves or flowers. Sticky residue ("honeydew") usually present, which attracts ants. Control: ladybugs, strong spray from hose, insecticidal soap.

Beetles Adults chew leaves, flowers and stems; larvae (grubs) chew roots. Control: Pick beetles off and knock into a can of kerosene and water.

Caterpillars Larvae of moths and butterflies feed on leaves, buds and flowers, mostly in spring. Buds are chewed, leaves may be rolled up around the worm. Control: Remove affected buds and leaves.

Mites Tiny colonies of red or brown spiders in webs under leaves; suck plant juices and cause leaves to turn stippled, grayish, then fall. Control: Clean up plant debris around plants in spring. Wash off with a spray from the hose; do this daily and try to get the underside of the leaves. Can spray with insecticidal soap or miticide.

Whiteflies Scale-like, flat, oval pale green or brown in nymph stage, white winged adults which fly up in a cloud the plant is disturbed. Mottled leaves, turn yellow and die. Control: Difficult.

COMMON DISEASES

Fungus (Powdery Mildew) White, powdery patches on leaves, shoots, buds; stunted foliage or distorted shoots. Spread by wind, splashing water, plant debris. Control: Remove affected plant parts, dispose.

Fungus Diseases (Rust) Yellow dots on tops, rusty patches underneath leaves. Spread by wind, splashing water, plant debris from previous season. Control: Remove affected plant parts, dispose.

Virus Diseases (Mosaic, Aster Yellows) Mottled or mosaic patterns on leaves; stunted or distorted growth. Control: Spread by aphids or leafhoppers. Remove and dispose of affected plants. No real cure. Rotate your flowers around in different places each year.

Annual Plant Care Other than removing faded flower heads and regular watering, annuals are pretty carefree. For early-flowering annuals, cut plants back when flowers have stopped appearing. This will encourage new flowering. If you've planted annuals for cutting, be sure to cut frequently because this will encourage more flowers for future bouquets.

Enjoy!